All things, James Herriot and All Creatures Great & Small - my story

 All Creatures Great & Small and James Herriot - a bit of a love affair! 

How it all started - The books, the films & tv

I can clearly remember reading the very first chapter of the very first of the James Herriot's books.  I expect it was All Creatures Great & Small, the omnibus edition but it may have been If Only They Could Talk. Regardless, I vividly remember the description of the stone barn high on the hillside; the dimness of light inside, the pitch darkness outside, the swirling snow, the bitter cold, the exhausted cow, the muck, the done-in vet, the sweat, the struggle.  The sheer, stoic struggle to succeed. To succeed, not for personal gain, but to bring life into the world, to save a life which in turn staved off immense hardship for the farmer (a difficult calving can result in the death of calf, cow or both).  And succeed, Mr Herriot did and in turn he succeeded in turning me into a fan.

I was in my late teens / early twentys when the James Herriot stories were published and I couldn't get my hands on them fast enough.  At the time I was working as a girl groom.  I was horse daft as my dad would say! For a time, I  worked for a family in Northern Ireland.  A new James Herriot book had just been released and I couldn't put it down.  I was reading it whilst holding a horse for the blacksmith.  Horse skittered about and I got a right mouthful for not concentrating on what I should have been doing!  And rightfully so. Didn't do that again!

Equally I can clearly remember going to the cinema to see both feature films;  All Creatures Great & Small starring Simon Ward as James Herriot and Lisa Farrow as Helen and It Shouldn't Happen to a Vet. Lisa Farrow was cast as Helen for a second time and John Alderton starred as James.  Next came the All Creatures Great & Small BBC tv series. I was back home by then and for my family it made perfect Sunday night television viewing. We loved it.

  Sharing Herriot Country 

When I met and married Chris I was couldn't have been happier.  Not only did I have a devoted husband but I was living on a hill farm in the depth of Herriot country.  Alf Wight had set his stories, not around Thirsk, but in the Yorkshire Dales. I was surrounded by tv and film locations, stories and memories.

When I started doing Bed & Breakfast at Pry House Farm I had guests from all over the world wanting to visit all of the locations they had seen on their television screens. Visitors came from America including Alaska, the Netherlands, France and of course the United Kingdom.  They loved staying in a traditional dales farmhouse on a working hill farm typical of the type that would have been on Alf Wight rounds every day of his career.

I sent them off armed with the Herriot Trail Leaflet to tour Swaledale, Arkengarthdale & Wensleydale. To drive through the iconic watersplash which featured in the opening credits of every All Creatures Great & Small.  Robert Hardy in the driving seat, Christopher Timothy in the passenger seat and a dog in the back!  Then onto Langthwaite for a drive over the unforgetable little humpback bridge and a stop at the Red Lion which played several parts in the tv series and is still run today by the same landlady!  

No visit would be complete without a drive into Wensleydale to visit Askrigg better known as Darrowby. Instantly recognisable with its narrow road winding down past Skeldale House still complete with railings & name above the door, the church, the market cross, the cobbles and Kings Arms better known as Darrowby's Drovers Arms.

Back into Swaledale and stop at The Punchbowl Inn in Low Row. This is the place that Robert Hardy always stayed during filming. Many of our guests now take our self catering holiday cottage, Hillcrest in Low Row making it an equally good base to explore Herriot country.

Revisiting the BBC tv series All Creatures Great & Small on DVD

December 2020 and we were in the grips of the covid pandemic when an unexpected parcel arrived in the post - the complete All Creatures Great & Small boxed set.  Seventy nine episodes including three Christmas specials.  I'd never seen a repeat of the tv series.  I had such wonderful memories of the books and the tv programmes that I didn't want them spoiling but we were in lockdown and the nights were long.  We started to watch them, I had no need to worry, we loved them.  To be quite honest, the ACG&S boxed set kept us sane during lockdown.  Chris would say 'Shall we watch a bit of vitnery?' Watching with Chris added a whole new dimension to the enjoyment as he pointed out roads and buildings and sheep pens and moorland track and endless other landmarks that he recognised.  One evening I couldn't believe my eyes when suddenly  Christopher Timothy was driving along the road immediatley below where we live now! James Herriot was on his way to Thorns Farm where Chris' uncle & cousin farmed at the time.  In the Yorkshire Dales, Shorthorn cattle were the norm but change was on the way and the ACG&S storyline was about a farmer who was moving to Friesian cattle. Chris' uncle was one of only few in the area with Friesian cows so the filming took place at Thorns Farm. Amazing.  All Creatures Great & Small was back in my life and all because of the generosity & kindness of Stella and Richard

 Other James Herriot and All Creatures Great & Small Experiences

The World of James Herriot

I love the World of James Herriot in Thirsk and have visited many times. It is so poignant that the museum IS 23 Kirkgate, the real Skeldale House where Alf Wight (James Herriot) & his family, and Donald Sinclair (Seigfried Farnon) lived and worked. The museum is a step back in time to the 1940s with rooms such as the dining room, sitting room and dispensary set out exactly as they were when the vets were there with furniture, photographs & books donated by Alf's son & daughter.

The Herriot Way

Alf Wight loved Swaledale and Wensleydale and visited often.  One of his favourite views was of Swaledale from the road between Leyburn and Reeth.  He would stop at the side of the road, on Grinton Moor and take in the magnificence of the Swaledale landscape.  The Herriot Way is a 4-day, 52 mile, circular walk inspired by Alf Wight who used to stay with his family in the Youth Hostels in Keld, Reeth, Asygarth and Hawes.  Two of the four hostels may have gone but the spectacular scenery remains unchanged. 

Taking a break.  Taking in the scenery.

Day 2 - The heather moor with Reeth in the background.

In August 2023 I walked the Herriot Way with good friends.  It is a wonderful walk and one I hope to do again.

All Creatures Great & Small Accommodaton

There is a very special pub in the dales called the Wensleydale Heifer. It is renowned for its fabulous food and themed rooms, two of which are the James Herriot room and the All Creatures Great & Small room. 

In 2024 we stayed the night in the All Creatures Great & Small room.  What a treat!

Dear Guest, May I welcome you to the Wenselydale Heifer where I have had many happy visits.  I hope you will be comfortable and will enjoy the glories of Wensleydale, Coverdale, Swaledale, Arkengarthdale and Whafedale, as much as I have over the years.  Every good wish, Robert Hardy.

We have also stayed at the Devonshire in Grassington in the Tristan Farnon room.  During filming, the Devonshire becomes the exterior of the Drovers Arms in the current Channel 5 All Creatures Great & Small tv series.

The interior of the Drovers Arms is modelled on the Green Dragon in Hardraw near Hawes.  The Green Dragon is also a  watering hole on the Herriot Way!

The new Channel 5 TV Series

There have been six series of the new Channel 5 All Creatures Great & Small.  Before production started I saw an advert asking for extras.  I signed up.  I would have loved to have been in it but between 2019 & 2023 I couldn't commit because of lambing time and Bed & Breakfast.  Then in 2024 an email arrived saying they wanted extras for filming in February. February is a quiet month on the farm and the B&B so I said I was available.  I was almost to peel off the ceiling when the email came to say I had been chosen and would I go for a costume fitting and be in Grassington for 2 days filming.  Oh my word, I could hardly contain my excitement.

It was exciting and very interesting to be part of the production.  I was in two episodes in Series 5 plus the Christmas Special and two episodes in Series 6. It is not easy to spot me on the television as naturally, extras are very much in the background or in group scenes.  Also I wear a wig which totally alters my appearance.

As soon as we are off set the dressers are there with hairnets to keep everyone's hair exactly as it was and checking costumes.  All to do with continuity.

My favourite day was when we were filming the Darrowby VJ Day party.  The weather was wonderful, the location on Arncliffe green was perfect, the Skipton Silver Band was playing, it was like being transported back in time. I have very few photographs as there is a strict protocol about taking photos, speaking to cast and putting anything on social media before the programmes are aired.

Having said that, all members of the crew are very nice, friendly, considerate and look after everyone.  I am hoping to be asked back for Series 7 in spring 2027.

What else?  There always seems to be something All Creatures Great & Small related

Recently Chris and I attended and An Evening with Peter Wright and Rosie Page.  Peter Wright, now better known as the Yorkshire Vet, started his veterinary career at Skeldale House with Alf Wight.  Rosie Page is Alf Wight's daughter.  It was a very interesting event which I can thoroughly recommend if they are in your area. A percentage of the profits went to the Herriot Hospice which Rosie Page is heavily involved in.

April 2027 sees the 50th anniversary of the release of It Shouldn't Happen to a Vet.  There is a screening in Muker Public Hall to celebrate.  A lot of the filming took place in Muker but the farmhouse scenes were filmed at Stonehouse, at the head of Swaledale, below Pry House.  Chris remembers going down to watch the action and to get his tea from the catering bus!

Something else new is the World of James Herriot Podcast https://worldofjamesherriot.com/herriot-podcast/

The first three are interviews with Jim Wight, Alf Wight's son, reminiscing about his father, working with both Alf and Donald Sinclair, life in Skeldale House as a small child and the many farming characters that he and his dad came into contact with. I'm enjoying it.

If you love James Herriot and All Creatures Great & Small I hope you have enjoyed my memories & experiences too.

James Herriot's Country Kitchen Collection

 

The Pros and Cons of a Winter Break in the Yorkshire Dales

 A winter break at Hillcrest Cottage - The Pros & Cons

The Positives

• Its quiet!  Have the dales to yourself.  Light traffic and empty footpaths.  Perfect.
• Short breaks in November, December (except Chrismas & New Year), January & February (minimum  3 nights and subject to availability)
• It might snow!
• Pubs guarenteed to have their fires roaring
• Hillcrest is a warm & cosy cottage, perfect when returning from a bracing walk 
• Whatever the weather the views from the upstairs lounge windows are remarkable
• Read, relax, puzzle over a jigsaw, play dominoes
• Winter is a good time to meet & mingle with the locals and get a real feel of life in the dales
• Pop along to a local domino / whist drive, craft fair, carol service, village bonfire
• Need somewhere quiet for your dog to escape the fireworks? Hillcrest is ideal as there isn't a bonfire in Low Row.  The nearest community bonfire & fireworks is in Reeth 4 miles away.

The Disadvantages

• Pubs and cafes will be operating their winter opening times.  Check websites & facebook pages
• Low Row's local, The Punchbowl Inn, closes Mondays & Tuesday from 5th January.  Open Wednesday to Sunday 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Lunches 12:00 till 2:30 and Evening meals 5:30 till 8:00 p.m.
• Ramsay's Mobile Fish & Chip Van take a break over Christmas & New Year but from early January are in Low Row, opposite the Punchbowl Inn, on a Friday evening 7:00 till 7:20
• Other attractions may also operate reduced opening hours so check beforehand  

We Have Moved!

 We Have Moved House!

2025 was a majorly busy year for us.  Downsizing from a large rambling farmhouse to a two bedroomed cottage took some doing! But we made it and we love it.

 In addition to ourselves Heidi and Hetty the Herdwicks have moved home .....

...... and naturally Chris' two working dogs, Star & Meg had to be re-homed too.  We built kennels with runs for them and they settled in remarkably quickly.  As you can see, Star is very inquisitive.  She is so loving that  hopefully one day she will make a wonderful housedog however she loves her work and while Chris needs her to help with the sheep, for now she will stay a working dog.

But what about my blog?  The consequence of moving house wrapped up with all the other everyday family events, health pitfalls etc meant the blog was seriously neglected, for which I apologise.  MUST DO BETTER!

My Favourite Autumn Walk from Hillcrest Cottage

 Staying at Hillcrest Cottage?  For autumn colours this has to be my favourite walk.

Keld to Low Row - 9 miles.

(photo credits - Marie Bates)

Pack a sandwich & a flask.  You will need good, preferably waterproof walking boots and walking poles or a stick.  I can't stress enough the importance of carrying a stick.  All the most interesting paths get wet & muddy and have stones & tree roots to trip over.  My trusty stick has saved me many times from falling.  Ready to go?  Next catch the Little White Bus from opposite the Punchbowl Inn at 9:35   arriving in Keld at 10:00. Timetable

The bus will drop you off at the bottom of Keld village.  Take the path on the right.

  After a few hundred yards the path turns sharp left and drops steeply to a bridge that crosses the River Swale.

Kisdon Force is mesmerising at any time of year but after heavy rain you will hear it before you see it!  This double drop waterfall can be viewed from the bottom or the grassy bank at the side.  The path winds up to the left of the waterfall. At the top is a fingerpost marked Coast to Coast & Pennine Way.  Take the path right over the top of the waterfall and through a gate.  

You are now on the footpath to Muker and beyond.  It is a popular walk  and you are sure to meet fellow walkers to say hello to.  Stay on this path, through several gates and passing a long abandoned, rusty tractor (good photo opportunity!).  Continue down the hill to where the waters of Swinner Gill meets the Swale.

Here you will find evidence of Swaledale's lead mining past.

The waterfall tumbles down to side of what is left of the industry here however high up Swinner Gill and Gunnerside Gill are lead mining buildings that are almost complete.  They are an amazing sight but that is a walk for another day.

Continue along the track.  The valley widens and the river slows.  Up to now you have been walking on a wide track.  As you get near to the village of Muker (which is on the other side of the river) look out for a small but distinct narrow path to the right.  Take this path but do not go down to the bridge unless you want to go to Muker (a 10 minute walk diversion).  Keep on the narrow path, through the trees, with the river on your right.

The path opens out onto pasture & meadow land.  There are stiles to negotiate but the path across the grass is clear.  Just look ahead for the next stile / yellow waymarker.  When you come to a wire fenced section, cross using the stile by the metal gate and follow the track upwards to the next field and a fingerpost to Ivelet Bridge.  Except for a narrow stretch through some trees (can be muddy & slippery - take care) the path basically follows the river all the way to Ivelet Bridge.

Ivelet Bridge is very pretty from the ground and very memorable from behind the wheel!  Its arch is so acute that when driving over, you momentarily lose the road and find yourself staring at the sky!  Its a peculiar experience.  Ivelet Bridge is exactly half way between Keld and Low Row and makes a great stopping place for the sandwich you made earlier.  There's a bench to rest on - a peaceful place to watch the water and listen to the birds. 

                               Do not cross over Ivelet Bridge, instead walk along the single track road that rises gently to the hamlet of Ivelet.  Turn right and walk along the front of the cottages.  At the last cottage take the path down through the trees to the bridge that crosses Ivelet Gill.                                         

Another magical, little place.  Up the other side and out onto the pastures that lead to Gunnerside.

Once out and into the open fields the landscape is dotted with dozens of cow houses, a feature that Swaledale is famous for.  Follow the path across these small fields, each with its own cow'us, entering Gunnerside close to the primary school.  There is a good pub The Kings Head and a very nice tearoom Ghyllfoot Tearoom in Gunnerside (check opening times for both) so if you forgot your sandwich this is where you can get refreshments.  There are also public toilets in Gunnerside however you will need a 20p piece.

When leaving Gunnerside follow the road across the bridge, past the pub, the cafe and the houses.  At the last cottage on the left, walk uphill and go through the small gate at the side of the large, metal electric gate.  Continue only a short way up the road to the first left hand bend and take the stoney track behind a building on the right.

The track rises up and up but its worth it.  From here your eye is taken all the way up to the top of Swaledale and then down again to the patchwork of meadows that are Gunnerside Bottoms.  Continue uphill passing Lane Foot where two cottages once stood.

Having past Lane Foot keep to the path close to the wall on the right.  A dwelling will come into view.  Before getting to the house look out for a stone stile  built into the wall.  This is the official crossing place however at time of writing the stile was damaged.  It is a very high stile and in its present condition unsafe to negiotate.  We used the gate a few yards further on.

Follow the path that runs centrally across the next three fields with stiles to cross.  Having crossed the last field enter Rowleth Woods by the stile with a white sign at the side.

The woods are a mere half a mile across however it will seem much further.  This is where your strong boots and walking poles are an absolute necessity.  The path can be very muddy & slippery and overgrown in places with rocks to negotiate and tree roots to stumble over.  The woods however are beautiful.  Take your time and take care.

When you emerge from the woods the pasture is on a slope.  Follow the contour of the hill to a wide gap in a stone wall, followed by two narrower gaps.  The grassy path now climbs to a wooden gate.  The buildings of Smarber are above you.  Do not take the path up to the buildings.  From the wooden gate go diagonally downhill to the large metal gate with another gate at right angles to the left.  Once through the gates follow the faint green path across the meadow and through a large gate.  The green path becomes a track which rises up to the left.  Despite being able to see a yellow waymarker above you, don't go up the track but stick to the path on the right that runs close to the wall.

The narrow path comes out onto the track in the photo above.  This time take the left hand fork through the trees and very soon you are on the path that runs beside the properties to the west of Hillcrest. 

I hope you have enjoyed this autumn walk.  Naturally you can do it at any time of year.  In spring the whole dale will be awash with young, vibrant greens and in summer the meadows full of wildflowers.

Home Sweet Home!

 

Our Three Favourite Walks from Hillcrest Cottage

 Our Three Favourite Walks from Hillcrest Cottage

There are many walks and rambles to explore when you are staying at Hillcrest.  There are plenty books & leaflets in the cottage plus a portfolio of Swaledale & Wensleydale walks that I have collected over the years however here are our Top 3.  They are all very different.  The first is from the cottage door.  Its always good to leave your car behind.  The second is a short drive up the steep road at the side of the Punchbowl Inn.  And the third is a linear walk so it requires two vehicles or one person in your party to be the driver and is happy to drop you off at the start and collect you at the finish.  Whichever you choose - enjoy!

Number One:  

A circular walk from the cottage door.  A very pleasant ramble along leafy lanes and the very quiet path that follows the river and finally through woodland.  The path comes out on the road just east of Low Row. You have to pass the Punchbowl Inn before getting back to Hillcrest.  How convenient!  Time your walk for opening time and pop in for lunch or a drink.  I have written a blog with photos & directions for this walk.  Read it here https://pryhousefarm.blogspot.com/2022/05/an-easy-and-very-lovely-circular-walk.html

Number Two:

  Surrender Bridge to Old Gang and Great Pinseat.  The start of this walk is only a 5 minute drive from Hillcrest.  There's plenty parking at Surrender Bridge.  This circular walk is on a hard, permanent track so is ideal if there's been a lot of rain when grassy paths are soft & wet.  This is also a great route to take if you have bikes.  It is a walk that is steeped in history.  Explore the lead mining buildings at Surrender and Old Gang and peer down the Brandy Bottles tunnels that go deep into the hillside.  Again I have written a blog of this walk for you to follow.  Read it here https://pryhousefarm.blogspot.com/2020/11/a-walk-in-footsteps-of-long-ago-lead.html 

Number Three:

Grinton Youth Hostel to Bolton Castle.  Approximately 10 miles. Call in at the YDNP Hudson House Visitor Centre in Reeth for a map.  This is a linear walk and is part of the Herriot Way.  The views of Reeth, Low Row and beyond up Swaledale are spectacular.  If you do this walk in August when the heather is in full bloom, it is simply heavenly.  Some of the paths go directly through the heather and the honey scent is intoxicating.  Heather moors, sparkling mountain springs, stretches of land that bears the scars of its lead mining past, grassy pastures and finally the fairytale Bolton Castle and its very welcome tearoom!  

I hope you have fun exploring the diverse and very beautiful landscape of Swaledale.

   

Wildflower Wander

A Wildflower Wander from Keld to Muker over Kisdon Hill and return through Keld Woods

The month of June is paradise for lovers of wild flowers.

Foxgloves love the shelter of a dry stone wall

Ragged Robin loves damp conditions found at the side of a stream.

Field pansies

I chose to walk to Muker via Kisdon Hill as I love to see the pansies growing wild up there.  There are several varieties;  some are two shades of blue as above, others are blue & yellow and some are all yellow.  They are delightful.  Pretty faces in an otherwise harsh moorland environment.

A little higher up Cotton Flower waves gently in the breeze.

Mountain Alyssum cascading over an exposed stone.

As the land begins to fall the Swaledale valley with its patchwork of meadow fields and the huddle of buildings which make up Muker village suddenly unfolds out of nowhere.  

Above:  Rock Roses and the first stile into the meadows with a sign asking visitors to keep to the path.

The path back to Keld takes you through the famous Muker hay meadows.  Six tiny meadow fields each surrounded by dry stone walls with gated stiles to a stone pathway giving perfect access to the myriad of wild flowers & grasses growing here.
Today I noticed how well the red clover is doing this year (its the same in our meadows at Pry House Farm). Muker meadows are noted for the abundance of Wood Cranesbill.  Other favourites are Eyebright, Pignut, Hawk's Bit, Ladies Mantle & Bugle

Leaving the beautiful Muker hay meadows behind turn left at the fingerpost signposted Keld.  Here the path follows the river for a couple of miles passing by the derelict remains of a community known as Hartlakes.  Look right through the trees to the other side of the river where the evidence of the long-gone industrial age of lead mining stares back at you.  If you are interested in the lead mining history of the area call in at the Living History Museum in the tiny old school building in Keld.  It is full of information and artifacts relating to Keld's lead mining, agricultural and social past Old School Keld Living Museum.  A little further on and the path takes you through Keld Woods.  Its darker and more damp here providing a cooler, shadier environment for floweres and ferns that thrive in these conditions.  Its as if time has stood still with primroses, bluebells, forget-me-not and speedwell all still in flower in mid June.

Water Avens or Billy's Buttons

As the path opens out on the approach to Keld there are yet more varieties of wild flowers to spot.  The Keld to Muker circular is one I have done many times.  Usually its the stunning scenery that gets all the attention but today the flowers were centre stage. 

Dog Rose

Melancholy Thistle and Wood Cranesbill