Staying at Hillcrest Cottage? For autumn colours this has to be my favourite walk.
Keld to Low Row - 9 miles.
(photo credits - Marie Bates)
Pack a sandwich & a flask. You will need good, preferably waterproof walking boots and walking poles or a stick. I can't stress enough the importance of carrying a stick. All the most interesting paths get wet & muddy and have stones & tree roots to trip over. My trusty stick has saved me many times from falling. Ready to go? Next catch the Little White Bus from opposite the Punchbowl Inn at 9:35 arriving in Keld at 10:00. Timetable
The bus will drop you off at the bottom of Keld village. Take the path on the right.
After a few hundred yards the path turns sharp left and drops steeply to a bridge that crosses the River Swale.
Kisdon Force is mesmerising at any time of year but after heavy rain you will hear it before you see it! This double drop waterfall can be viewed from the bottom or the grassy bank at the side. The path winds up to the left of the waterfall. At the top is a fingerpost marked Coast to Coast & Pennine Way. Take the path right over the top of the waterfall and through a gate.
You are now on the footpath to Muker and beyond. It is a popular walk and you are sure to meet fellow walkers to say hello to. Stay on this path, through several gates and passing a long abandoned, rusty tractor (good photo opportunity!). Continue down the hill to where the waters of Swinner Gill meets the Swale.
Here you will find evidence of Swaledale's lead mining past.
The waterfall tumbles down to side of what is left of the industry here however high up Swinner Gill and Gunnerside Gill are lead mining buildings that are almost complete. They are an amazing sight but that is a walk for another day.
Continue along the track. The valley widens and the river slows. Up to now you have been walking on a wide track. As you get near to the village of Muker (which is on the other side of the river) look out for a small but distinct narrow path to the right. Take this path but do not go down to the bridge unless you want to go to Muker (a 10 minute walk diversion). Keep on the narrow path, through the trees, with the river on your right.
The path opens out onto pasture & meadow land. There are stiles to negotiate but the path across the grass is clear. Just look ahead for the next stile / yellow waymarker. When you come to a wire fenced section, cross using the stile by the metal gate and follow the track upwards to the next field and a fingerpost to Ivelet Bridge. Except for a narrow stretch through some trees (can be muddy & slippery - take care) the path basically follows the river all the way to Ivelet Bridge.
Ivelet Bridge is very pretty from the ground and very memorable from behind the wheel! Its arch is so acute that when driving over, you momentarily lose the road and find yourself staring at the sky! Its a peculiar experience. Ivelet Bridge is exactly half way between Keld and Low Row and makes a great stopping place for the sandwich you made earlier. There's a bench to rest on - a peaceful place to watch the water and listen to the birds.
Do not cross over Ivelet Bridge, instead walk along the single track road that rises gently to the hamlet of Ivelet. Turn right and walk along the front of the cottages. At the last cottage take the path down through the trees to the bridge that crosses Ivelet Gill.
Another magical, little place. Up the other side and out onto the pastures that lead to Gunnerside.
Once out and into the open fields the landscape is dotted with dozens of cow houses, a feature that Swaledale is famous for. Follow the path across these small fields, each with its own cow'us, entering Gunnerside close to the primary school. There is a good pub
The Kings Head and a very nice tearoom
Ghyllfoot Tearoom in Gunnerside (check opening times for both) so if you forgot your sandwich this is where you can get refreshments. There are also public toilets in Gunnerside however you will need a 20p piece.
When leaving Gunnerside follow the road across the bridge, past the pub, the cafe and the houses. At the last cottage on the left, walk uphill and go through the small gate at the side of the large, metal electric gate. Continue only a short way up the road to the first left hand bend and take the stoney track behind a building on the right.
The track rises up and up but its worth it. From here your eye is taken all the way up to the top of Swaledale and then down again to the patchwork of meadows that are Gunnerside Bottoms. Continue uphill passing Lane Foot where two cottages once stood.
Having past Lane Foot keep to the path close to the wall on the right. A dwelling will come into view. Before getting to the house look out for a stone stile built into the wall. This is the official crossing place however at time of writing the stile was damaged. It is a very high stile and in its present condition unsafe to negiotate. We used the gate a few yards further on.
Follow the path that runs centrally across the next three fields with stiles to cross. Having crossed the last field enter Rowleth Woods by the stile with a white sign at the side.
The woods are a mere half a mile across however it will seem much further. This is where your strong boots and walking poles are an absolute necessity. The path can be very muddy & slippery and overgrown in places with rocks to negotiate and tree roots to stumble over. The woods however are beautiful. Take your time and take care.
When you emerge from the woods the pasture is on a slope. Follow the contour of the hill to a wide gap in a stone wall, followed by two narrower gaps. The grassy path now climbs to a wooden gate. The buildings of Smarber are above you. Do not take the path up to the buildings. From the wooden gate go diagonally downhill to the large metal gate with another gate at right angles to the left. Once through the gates follow the faint green path across the meadow and through a large gate. The green path becomes a track which rises up to the left. Despite being able to see a yellow waymarker above you, don't go up the track but stick to the path on the right that runs close to the wall.
The narrow path comes out onto the track in the photo above. This time take the left hand fork through the trees and very soon you are on the path that runs beside the properties to the west of Hillcrest.
I hope you have enjoyed this autumn walk. Naturally you can do it at any time of year. In spring the whole dale will be awash with young, vibrant greens and in summer the meadows full of wildflowers.
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