My Favourite Autumn Walk from Hillcrest Cottage

 Staying at Hillcrest Cottage?  For autumn colours this has to be my favourite walk.

Keld to Low Row - 9 miles.

(photo credits - Marie Bates)

Pack a sandwich & a flask.  You will need good, preferably waterproof walking boots and walking poles or a stick.  I can't stress enough the importance of carrying a stick.  All the most interesting paths get wet & muddy and have stones & tree roots to trip over.  My trusty stick has saved me many times from falling.  Ready to go?  Next catch the Little White Bus from opposite the Punchbowl Inn at 9:35   arriving in Keld at 10:00. Timetable

The bus will drop you off at the bottom of Keld village.  Take the path on the right.

  After a few hundred yards the path turns sharp left and drops steeply to a bridge that crosses the River Swale.

Kisdon Force is mesmerising at any time of year but after heavy rain you will hear it before you see it!  This double drop waterfall can be viewed from the bottom or the grassy bank at the side.  The path winds up to the left of the waterfall. At the top is a fingerpost marked Coast to Coast & Pennine Way.  Take the path right over the top of the waterfall and through a gate.  

You are now on the footpath to Muker and beyond.  It is a popular walk  and you are sure to meet fellow walkers to say hello to.  Stay on this path, through several gates and passing a long abandoned, rusty tractor (good photo opportunity!).  Continue down the hill to where the waters of Swinner Gill meets the Swale.

Here you will find evidence of Swaledale's lead mining past.

The waterfall tumbles down to side of what is left of the industry here however high up Swinner Gill and Gunnerside Gill are lead mining buildings that are almost complete.  They are an amazing sight but that is a walk for another day.

Continue along the track.  The valley widens and the river slows.  Up to now you have been walking on a wide track.  As you get near to the village of Muker (which is on the other side of the river) look out for a small but distinct narrow path to the right.  Take this path but do not go down to the bridge unless you want to go to Muker (a 10 minute walk diversion).  Keep on the narrow path, through the trees, with the river on your right.

The path opens out onto pasture & meadow land.  There are stiles to negotiate but the path across the grass is clear.  Just look ahead for the next stile / yellow waymarker.  When you come to a wire fenced section, cross using the stile by the metal gate and follow the track upwards to the next field and a fingerpost to Ivelet Bridge.  Except for a narrow stretch through some trees (can be muddy & slippery - take care) the path basically follows the river all the way to Ivelet Bridge.

Ivelet Bridge is very pretty from the ground and very memorable from behind the wheel!  Its arch is so acute that when driving over, you momentarily lose the road and find yourself staring at the sky!  Its a peculiar experience.  Ivelet Bridge is exactly half way between Keld and Low Row and makes a great stopping place for the sandwich you made earlier.  There's a bench to rest on - a peaceful place to watch the water and listen to the birds. 

                               Do not cross over Ivelet Bridge, instead walk along the single track road that rises gently to the hamlet of Ivelet.  Turn right and walk along the front of the cottages.  At the last cottage take the path down through the trees to the bridge that crosses Ivelet Gill.                                         

Another magical, little place.  Up the other side and out onto the pastures that lead to Gunnerside.

Once out and into the open fields the landscape is dotted with dozens of cow houses, a feature that Swaledale is famous for.  Follow the path across these small fields, each with its own cow'us, entering Gunnerside close to the primary school.  There is a good pub The Kings Head and a very nice tearoom Ghyllfoot Tearoom in Gunnerside (check opening times for both) so if you forgot your sandwich this is where you can get refreshments.  There are also public toilets in Gunnerside however you will need a 20p piece.

When leaving Gunnerside follow the road across the bridge, past the pub, the cafe and the houses.  At the last cottage on the left, walk uphill and go through the small gate at the side of the large, metal electric gate.  Continue only a short way up the road to the first left hand bend and take the stoney track behind a building on the right.

The track rises up and up but its worth it.  From here your eye is taken all the way up to the top of Swaledale and then down again to the patchwork of meadows that are Gunnerside Bottoms.  Continue uphill passing Lane Foot where two cottages once stood.

Having past Lane Foot keep to the path close to the wall on the right.  A dwelling will come into view.  Before getting to the house look out for a stone stile  built into the wall.  This is the official crossing place however at time of writing the stile was damaged.  It is a very high stile and in its present condition unsafe to negiotate.  We used the gate a few yards further on.

Follow the path that runs centrally across the next three fields with stiles to cross.  Having crossed the last field enter Rowleth Woods by the stile with a white sign at the side.

The woods are a mere half a mile across however it will seem much further.  This is where your strong boots and walking poles are an absolute necessity.  The path can be very muddy & slippery and overgrown in places with rocks to negotiate and tree roots to stumble over.  The woods however are beautiful.  Take your time and take care.

When you emerge from the woods the pasture is on a slope.  Follow the contour of the hill to a wide gap in a stone wall, followed by two narrower gaps.  The grassy path now climbs to a wooden gate.  The buildings of Smarber are above you.  Do not take the path up to the buildings.  From the wooden gate go diagonally downhill to the large metal gate with another gate at right angles to the left.  Once through the gates follow the faint green path across the meadow and through a large gate.  The green path becomes a track which rises up to the left.  Despite being able to see a yellow waymarker above you, don't go up the track but stick to the path on the right that runs close to the wall.

The narrow path comes out onto the track in the photo above.  This time take the left hand fork through the trees and very soon you are on the path that runs beside the properties to the west of Hillcrest. 

I hope you have enjoyed this autumn walk.  Naturally you can do it at any time of year.  In spring the whole dale will be awash with young, vibrant greens and in summer the meadows full of wildflowers.

Home Sweet Home!

 

Our Three Favourite Walks from Hillcrest Cottage

 Our Three Favourite Walks from Hillcrest Cottage

There are many walks and rambles to explore when you are staying at Hillcrest.  There are plenty books & leaflets in the cottage plus a portfolio of Swaledale & Wensleydale walks that I have collected over the years however here are our Top 3.  They are all very different.  The first is from the cottage door.  Its always good to leave your car behind.  The second is a short drive up the steep road at the side of the Punchbowl Inn.  And the third is a linear walk so it requires two vehicles or one person in your party to be the driver and is happy to drop you off at the start and collect you at the finish.  Whichever you choose - enjoy!

Number One:  

A circular walk from the cottage door.  A very pleasant ramble along leafy lanes and the very quiet path that follows the river and finally through woodland.  The path comes out on the road just east of Low Row. You have to pass the Punchbowl Inn before getting back to Hillcrest.  How convenient!  Time your walk for opening time and pop in for lunch or a drink.  I have written a blog with photos & directions for this walk.  Read it here https://pryhousefarm.blogspot.com/2022/05/an-easy-and-very-lovely-circular-walk.html

Number Two:

  Surrender Bridge to Old Gang and Great Pinseat.  The start of this walk is only a 5 minute drive from Hillcrest.  There's plenty parking at Surrender Bridge.  This circular walk is on a hard, permanent track so is ideal if there's been a lot of rain when grassy paths are soft & wet.  This is also a great route to take if you have bikes.  It is a walk that is steeped in history.  Explore the lead mining buildings at Surrender and Old Gang and peer down the Brandy Bottles tunnels that go deep into the hillside.  Again I have written a blog of this walk for you to follow.  Read it here https://pryhousefarm.blogspot.com/2020/11/a-walk-in-footsteps-of-long-ago-lead.html 

Number Three:

Grinton Youth Hostel to Bolton Castle.  Approximately 10 miles. Call in at the YDNP Hudson House Visitor Centre in Reeth for a map.  This is a linear walk and is part of the Herriot Way.  The views of Reeth, Low Row and beyond up Swaledale are spectacular.  If you do this walk in August when the heather is in full bloom, it is simply heavenly.  Some of the paths go directly through the heather and the honey scent is intoxicating.  Heather moors, sparkling mountain springs, stretches of land that bears the scars of its lead mining past, grassy pastures and finally the fairytale Bolton Castle and its very welcome tearoom!  

I hope you have fun exploring the diverse and very beautiful landscape of Swaledale.

   

Wildflower Wander

A Wildflower Wander from Keld to Muker over Kisdon Hill and return through Keld Woods

The month of June is paradise for lovers of wild flowers.

Foxgloves love the shelter of a dry stone wall

Ragged Robin loves damp conditions found at the side of a stream.

Field pansies

I chose to walk to Muker via Kisdon Hill as I love to see the pansies growing wild up there.  There are several varieties;  some are two shades of blue as above, others are blue & yellow and some are all yellow.  They are delightful.  Pretty faces in an otherwise harsh moorland environment.

A little higher up Cotton Flower waves gently in the breeze.

Mountain Alyssum cascading over an exposed stone.

As the land begins to fall the Swaledale valley with its patchwork of meadow fields and the huddle of buildings which make up Muker village suddenly unfolds out of nowhere.  

Above:  Rock Roses and the first stile into the meadows with a sign asking visitors to keep to the path.

The path back to Keld takes you through the famous Muker hay meadows.  Six tiny meadow fields each surrounded by dry stone walls with gated stiles to a stone pathway giving perfect access to the myriad of wild flowers & grasses growing here.
Today I noticed how well the red clover is doing this year (its the same in our meadows at Pry House Farm). Muker meadows are noted for the abundance of Wood Cranesbill.  Other favourites are Eyebright, Pignut, Hawk's Bit, Ladies Mantle & Bugle

Leaving the beautiful Muker hay meadows behind turn left at the fingerpost signposted Keld.  Here the path follows the river for a couple of miles passing by the derelict remains of a community known as Hartlakes.  Look right through the trees to the other side of the river where the evidence of the long-gone industrial age of lead mining stares back at you.  If you are interested in the lead mining history of the area call in at the Living History Museum in the tiny old school building in Keld.  It is full of information and artifacts relating to Keld's lead mining, agricultural and social past Old School Keld Living Museum.  A little further on and the path takes you through Keld Woods.  Its darker and more damp here providing a cooler, shadier environment for floweres and ferns that thrive in these conditions.  Its as if time has stood still with primroses, bluebells, forget-me-not and speedwell all still in flower in mid June.

Water Avens or Billy's Buttons

As the path opens out on the approach to Keld there are yet more varieties of wild flowers to spot.  The Keld to Muker circular is one I have done many times.  Usually its the stunning scenery that gets all the attention but today the flowers were centre stage. 

Dog Rose

Melancholy Thistle and Wood Cranesbill

Wild flowers of Swaledale

Flowers of Swaledale

Swaledale is famous for its flower rich hay meadows that stand knee high in buttercups, pignut, wood's cranebill, clover, eyebright and much more.  They are truely beautiful but its not always easy to predict when they will be at their best. All it takes is a rush of good growing weather for the grasses to grow up through them or for them to be flattened by heavy rain to spoil the effect. 

Cowslips

The wide variety of wild flowers that can be seen growing on bank sides, backs of walls, in crevices and ditches, on roadside verges and woodland floors often get overlooked.

The heady, pungent smell of wild garlic can be quite overpowering.  Mixed with forget-me-not it becomes perfectly charming.

English bluebells





















                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

                                                                                                       

As the seasons turn to summer much taller varieties appear such as foxglove, meadow sweet and melancholy thistle.

Foxgloves

Moorland pansies

Many alpine species live happily in the high hills; moorland pansies, alpine rock rose, tiny woodland anemone, wild violets, wild alyssum & alpine thyme. 

My favourites?  Without doubt, cowslips & the dainty faces of the moorland pansies.

  

Wet Day? No Problem

 Wet Day?  No Problem.

It no good pretending that you won't have an odd wet day when you are visiting the Yorkshire Dales.  Its the rainfall that makes the dales so green, it fills the crystal clear rivers & streams and allows the waterfalls to rush and gush and splash.

 But if the rain is streaming down the window when you are staying with us and its plainly impossible to be outdoors, here are some ideas of where to go and what to do.

The market town of Hawes in Wensleydale has two excellent indoor attractions.  Dales Countryside Museum tells the story of the people and landscape of the Yorkshire Dales.  It is family friendly with free entry for under 16s.  There's lots of exhibitions and hands on events to suit all the family.  The Firebox Cafe serves homemade / home cooked fare.  The Dales Countryside Museum is all-round good fun and good value.  Another great place to visit in Hawes is the Wensleydale Creamery where the famous Wensleydale cheese is made.  The Wensleydale Experience includes witnessing the cheese making process and watching demonstrations plus a stroll round the Cheese shop where you can sample over a dozen different cheeses / flavours (my favourites are Wensleydale with Cranberries and Abbots Gold).  Under 16s go free at weekends and school holidays so once again, great value.There is a quality gift shop, the bistro / cafe or the Kit Calvert Restaurant for simple refreshments or a very good meal. 

The Station at Richmond

Down dale from both Pry House Farm (50 minute drive) and Hillcrest Cottage (30 minute drive) is Richmond.  Richmond is home to The Georgian Theatre which is the most complete Georgian Theatre in Britain.  Book a Theatre Tour to explore backstage, under the stage, the dressing rooms and see some of the original scenery and stage props.  It will be The No 1 experience of your trip.  The Richmondshire Museum is another great venue for a rainy day.  Once inside, this seemingly little building will amaze you - its a real Tardis!  It has a street layout with a shop, post office, chemist etc and a Veterinary Surgery, infact the very one that was used in the BBC tv All Creatures Great & Small series.  There are exibitions about the Home Guard, lace making and lead mining. You will find a cruck house and a model railway of Richmond Station.  Again, good family entertainment - under 16s go free.  Richmond Station is no longer a railaway station but instead has been lovingly restored and is now The Station at Richmond.  It houses a 3-screen cinema, restaurant, galleries and several independent shops & businesses.  If it stops raining and you fancy a walk Richmond Station is the starting point for a lovely, level, circular walk along the old railway line to Easby Abbey.  See a previous blog post here https://pryhousefarm.blogspot.com/2021/11/circular-walk-from-richmond-station-via.html  Still raining and need to burn off some energy?  Next door to The Station is Richmond Swimming Pool.  Newly refurbished and in a stunning position by the River Swale, its glass walls allowing the outside in. This makes for a very relaxing swimming experience.

At the top of Swaledale and only a five minute drive from Pry House Farm is the village of Keld. For a tiny village there is a lot going on!  Keld Resource Centre is responsible for The School Museum and the Keld Countryside & Heritage Centre.  The School Museum building was, until 1973, the village's 2 room school. The School Museum is packed full of interesting artefacts many of which have been donated by locals.  There are exhibitions and displays in the The Heritage Centre and is the base for a large programme of events.  Have a look at their events page as there may be a talk or craft workshop that you could enjoy.  Keld has two cafes;  Keld Green cafe and Rukin's Tearoom. 

And after the rain?  Go puddle jumping.  Gaze in wonder at the waterfalls.  Take a dip!

 

   

The Farmers Arms - the Heart of the Community

 The Farmers Arms in Muker, the very heart of the Upper Swaledale community.

Pubs are often referred to as the hub of the community.  In quiet, sparsely populated rural areas such as Upper Swaledale they are (or should be) the beating heart.   The present owner of the Farmers Arms in Muker has been trying, unsuccessfully, to sell the pub until NOW!  Recently the idea of purchasing the Farmers Arms as a community pub was born and after much deliberation, public consultation and research the possibility is imminent.  A mere 2 weeks ago the community offer was accepted and now its full steam ahead to secure the funds.  There is a government community project grant of up to 50% of the purchase price available .... however for how long?  A general election is almost certain to get in the way of such funding so the race is on.  Nothing like a deadline to spur us into action!

If we dig deep enough, shout loud enough, rattle our tins hard enough and raise the funds The Farmers Arms could once again become the heart of the community.  'Community' means much more than the local community or the farming community.  As the photo above proves, the Farmers Arms is loved by the wider community and holds special memories for people all over the country and infact the world.

Imagine how much more connected to the community you would feel if you owned a teeny-weeny bit (or even a big chunk!) of the Farmer Arms.  How special would that be?  If you would like to buy a share or make a donation please click on this link which takes you to the Muker Community Website where all your questions will be answered.

Raise your voice, raise a glass of community spirit and wish us luck.  

The Farmers Arms needs YOU!  Many thanks.

  

Set in Stone

 Set in Stone

There are thousands of miles of dry stone walls in the dales.  They provide boundaries for meadows, fields & folds, garths & gardens, pastures, pens and punds (compound or small holding area for a few sheep) and then snakes their way upwards for miles & miles dividing the fell and forming the moor wall.

The drystone walls and the hundreds upon hundreds of little stone field buildings or cow houses (cow'us) as they are known in Swaledale define the Yorkshire Dales.

They are everywhere, they are impossible to miss but look a bit closer and there is a lot to find, hidden in the stone.  Look up, look down, you'll be surprised what you discover.  

 A worn horseshoe hammered into a stone wall.  A place to tie up the horse perhaps?

Dates and initials can tell us how old a building is and who lived here although they can also be deceiving.  The farm buildings at Pry House are not 350 years old but perhaps there has been a some sort of stone structure here since 1665.  The initials R A A will belong to a member of the Alderson family, a common name in upper Swaledale.

In fact George & Charles Alderson built Pry House in 1858 and had a sundial & their names carved in stone above the front door.

Benchmark carvings denote the 'mean' height above sea level.  They are sometimes referred to as 'crows feet' but this is not their proper name as a benchmark is an arrow with a straight line across the top.  We have one at Pry House on the road side building and there is another on the building opposite the Ravenseat road.  Pry House sits at 1300 feet above sea level.  Some people make a hobby out of finding & recording Benchmarks.  Its called Benchmark Bagging.

Look out for boundary stones as you cross from one county to another.  There are two on the border between North Yorkshire and Cumbria on the B6270 a few miles west of Pry House Farm.  

This sboundary stone faces east and the inscription is still clear.  It marks the edge of Birkdale, the most westerly dale in North Yorkshire.  

The writing on this stone faces west and the privailing wind and weather has eroded the inscription. I think it marks the beginning of Nateby fell. It is dated 1856.  Who the stretch of moor between the two stones belongs to is a mystery!

Happy hunting.